Come the autumn, the hedges are dripping with fruit for birds, mammals and insects to build up their resources for the winter ahead. Likewise, I aim to fill and store jars with rich purple jams and jellies made with fruit harvested while dog walking.
Any sunny afternoon I can be found scouring the hedgerows for crab apples, blackberries, sloes, wild plums, elderberries or bullaces, while my canine companion rummages around in the brambles below. Some of the most productive trees and bushes are actually closest to home, in the boundary hedge of Otley Hall, although the ditch and severe hedge pruning pose a problem of height and balance. I haven’t fallen in yet, but it’s been close at times. The best is always just out of reach.
To make a good hedgerow jelly you need a base of crab apples for their pectin. After that you can add whatever you come across, but a mixture is best. I never measure the weight of the fruit I put in, but I suppose crab apples make up about a third. Wild purple plums are like damsons and add a sharp tang to counter the gentle flavour of blackberries, while elderberries bring an earthiness to the mix. Not all these fruits are ready at the same time, so you have the option of popping them whole in bags in the freezer until you have a collection, or boiling them up immediately, straining them through a jelly bag and freezing the juice until you are ready to combine them all.
When you cook your harvest, put it in a very large saucepan or, better, a preserving pan. Add enough water to come to the level of the fruit, rescue any insects that float to the top along with any debris such as leaves, bring to the boil and then simmer for about half an hour until the fruit is soft and pulpy. You will then need a jelly bag or muslin square which you can suspend over a bowl or large jug. Ladle the fruit and liquid into the jelly bag and leave it to strain overnight or up to 24 hours. Avoid the temptation to squeeze the jelly bag as this can result in a cloudy jelly and you want to enhance the deep colour with the clearest, most translucent preserve possible.
Measure your juice and return it to the pan, together with 1lb of (granulated or preserving) sugar per pint of liquid. Yes, I know that’s Imperial, not Metric, but it works for me, as it has for generations before me. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil. Boil rapidly until setting point is reached. The length of time will depend entirely on the pectin content of the fruit you chose, which varies according to how ripe the fruit is when picked. The less ripe the fruit, the more pectin there is, but it isn’t as sweet and flavourful. I use the saucer method to test whether the jelly is ready. Put a spoonful of the jelly on a cold saucer and pop it in the fridge. After a few minutes, when it is cold, run your finger gently across the surface. If it wrinkles, it is done. I usually test it again, just to make sure, as you want as firm a set as possible.
While you are waiting for the jelly to reach setting point, find enough clean jam jars and lids and sterilise them by putting them in the oven at 150°C for five minutes. When you fill your hot jars with the hot jelly, make sure you fill them close to the brim. You don’t want to see any air once the lid is on as that could lead to contamination and spoiling of your preserve. Your jelly can then be stored for years, although the flavour will gradually weaken. Hedgerow jelly is great on toast or scones, can accompany cheese and is great with lamb or game. It is also perfect in this recipe by the great Dan Lepard: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/07/apple-berry-almond-tart-dan-lepard
Tags: fruit, hedgerows, jam Last modified: September 27, 2022
